North and Middle Tripyramid are two 4000 footers located in the Waterville Valley, in the southern section of the White Mountains. They’re quite close together and usually climbed on the same day. South Tripyramid is another peak on the same ridge, but is not climbed as frequently because it’s not on the official 4000 footer list. There are a number of different trails to approach the Tripyramids, but they’re all steep, including two trails that climb up avalanche slides. For this hike, we approached the peaks from the north on the Pine Bend Brook Trail, before hopping onto the Mt Tripyramid Trail and following that to North and Middle. This being January, this was a winter hike, which makes these ascents a non-trivial affair. The snow conditions were favorable however, with loose granular snow on top of a thick icy crust, which made traction quite good with the aid of crampons. I was accompanied by four other hikers on this trip, Hilde and Keith, who’d climbed the South Carter with me in December, and Tom and Nicole, who I’d never hiked with before. They’re all Random Hiker regulars though, a very hard core Meetup Group I lead trips for, and I was pretty sure we’d get along. We also have a lot of mutual friends. Other Nearby hikes
It’d been some years since I hiked up the Pine Bend Brook Trail and I’d completely forgotten what the approach hike looked like. The trail was broken out and we hiked up it quickly passing through open forest that looked like it’s been thinned by logging. We had to make a number of stream crossings along the way, but the water was running low and the ice shelves along their banks were stable, so we had no problems crossing them. The temperature at the trailhead has been 8 degrees when we started our hike, but we soon felt a curiously warm breeze blowing through the trees. Temperatures were expected to get up to 40’s later that day in the valleys, but I expected it to be much colder on the summits. Tom said that the higher summits (Mt Washington and the Northern Presidentials) had 50-60 mph winds and I expected us to get some of that higher up on the peaks we were climbing as well. The first two miles flew past as we passed the Wilderness Boundary and started climbing up a steep draw that the trail follows to the ridge. It soon became difficult to ascent with microspikes and we switched to full crampons. It’s been a while since I’ve had to hike in crampons, but I quickly remembered how to use them and practice my International Step and French Technique as we slogged up the steeps. I kind of wish I’d brought an ice axe to be truthful, because the slopes were much steeper than I recalled. In its absence, I concentrated on my footwork in order to avoid an unplanned slide. There was surprisingly little snow when we reached the ridge trail, which thankfully, is fairly protected from the wind. There was a layer of monorail on the trail, which is kind of surprising, because we usually don’t see that until April or May in spring conditions. The rest of the snow on the ridge had been blown off or melted. There was a final steep ascent to the summit of North Tripyramid which towered above us, but was only intermittently visible through the trees. And then we were at the summit, where we took a few pictures and has a snack break. From there it was an easy 0.8 mile ramble to Middle Tripyramid, passing the Sabbaday Brook Trail Junction. That trail was not broken out at all, which is just as well as it requires many stream crossings, which can be very tricky in winter if the stream is not well bridged with ice. We backtracked from Middle and then reversed our route. This was easier said than done because we had to climb down three very steep ascents in crampons, avoiding an uncontrolled slide each time. This required careful footworks and an extra effort to keep all of my spikes deep and perpendicular to the surface to avoid a slide into the surrounding trees. On the way down, we passed many hikers who had churned up the trail and made it more slippery by breaking the snow that had been frozen on top of the ice during the morning into a granular powder. I’m glad we had started early that morning because it meant we had had snow conditions and traction on the way up, which had been plenty tough without having to deal with the now unconsolidated snow. We got back to the trailhead after about 6.5 hours, plenty of time to stop at The Moat in North Conway for a few beers and burgers. Then back to the ski lodge for a quick afternoon shower and nap before dinner. Total distance: 8.9 miles w/3400′ of elevation gain. Recommended Guidebooks and Maps:
Written 2018. Support SectionHiker.com, where we actually field test the products we review. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site at no additional cost to you.The post Climbing the Tripyramids in January appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/climbing-tripyramids-january/
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Day hiking is great fun: great for the body and great for the soul. Make sure that you, your friends, family, and pets are properly equipped for your hike by referring to the following gear checklist before heading out. (Printer-Friendly Version PDF) This checklist is deliberately comprehensive so you don’t forget something. Start by packing up the 10 Essentials and then refer to the items below for other things that may be necessary for your intended route, weather, or companions. 10 EssentialsHere’s the basic gear you should carry for any hike to stay safe, comfortable, and remain self-sufficient. 1. Navigation (paper map at a minimum, plus compass, GPS, or GPS phone app) FootwearFootwear should be very well broken in before hiking with it to prevent hot spots and blisters. There’s a high probability that you’ll get get blisters if wearing shoes for the first time on a hike.
ClothingAlways check the weather forecast before a hike to make sure you’re bringing the correct clothing. Higher elevations are usually colder and windier than valleys. Avoid wearing cotton clothing except in desert conditions because it takes longer to dry than synthetics or wool.
Electronics
Pet GearDogs are great hiking companions, but when starting out it’s important that you equip your pup properly and prepare them for an environment where they’re likely to encounter wild animals, other people, and dogs. Be sure to protect their paws and bring plenty of food, water, and gear to keep them comfortable, safe, and their tails wagging.
Other Recommended Items
Written 2018. Support SectionHiker.com, where we actually field test the products we review. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site at no additional cost to you.See Also:
The post Day Hiking Gear Checklist appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/day-hiking-gear-check-list/ Closed cell foam sleeping pads are quite popular with ultralight backpackers who want to shave every ounce from their gear list and need gear that can’t fail. If you want to carry multi-purpose gear to save weight, you’re hard on gear, or want to save money, closed cell sleeping pads provide many advantages over inflatable and self-inflating pads. Advantages of Foam Sleeping Pads
Granted, foam pads aren’t for everyone. But they are simple and reliable to use. You don’t have to blow them up before use or struggle to deflate and pack them each morning. There’s nothing to break, they’re inexpensive, easy to modify and trim, and quite lightweight. You can stack them for cold weather use. You can even shape extra pieces of foam to support parts of your body, like a donut shape to support your hips, or a raised platform for your head, that you can stack on top of a foam pad for extra comfort. Multi-Purpose Ultralight Backpacking GearOne of the cornerstones of ultralight backpacking philosophy is the use of multi-purpose gear. If you can use one piece of gear multiple ways, you can reduce the number of items you carry, the size of your backpack, and the overall weight of your gear. If you take this route, it’s obviously prudent to use gear that can’t fail…like a foam sleeping pad. It can never leak or burst. You can use a foam pad as a :
Best Foam Sleeping PadsThe three most popular foam sleeping pads with ultralight backpackers are the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite, the Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest, and Gossamer Gear’s Thinlight foam pads. The high quality ubiquitous blue foam pads of yesteryear are now quite difficult to find and buy, so these are your best options. 1. Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol Foam Sleeping Pad
The accordion shaped Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol (w/ aluminized reflective surface) sleeping pad is a backpacking classic that’s easy to attach to any backpack. Weighing 14 ounces (72″ x 20″), this close cell foam pad has an R-value of 2.6 and costs $35 – $45, depending on the length. While easy to trim with a pair of scissors, you can also buy a short (51″ x 20″) Z Lite Sol which weighs 10 ounces.
2. Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest Classic
The RidgeRest Classic Sleeping Pad is made with crosslinked polyethylene foam. With an R-Value of 2.6, it ‘s available 48″, 72, and 77″ lengths, weighing 9, 14 and 19 ounces ($19-$29). Like the Thermarest Z Lite, it can be trimmed using a pair of scissors. An aluminized version, the RidgeRest SOLite, is also available with an R-value of 2.8, as well as the thicker aluminized RidgeRest Solar, which has an R-Value of 3.5.
3. Gossamer Gear Thinlight 1/8″ Hammock Foam Sleeping Pad
Gossamer Gear’s Thinlight 1/8″ Foam Pad is a multi-purpose item that can be rolled and placed inside a frameless UL backpack to provide structure, attached to the outside, or used as back panel padding with backpacks that have an external pad pocket or elastic attachment system. Made with closed cell Evazote foam, it can also be trimmed to make a custom ground pad, a hammock sleeping pad, or paired with an inflatable pad for protection and greater thermal insulation. Weighing just 2.4-2.8 ounces per roll, it’s a hardcore UL option for DIY enthusiasts. Cost: $18.
Wrap UpHowever you slice it, closed cell foam sleeping pads are a tremendous ultralight backpacking sleeping pad option. Lightweight, affordable, and easy to customize, they provide tremendous value for the money, which explains their continued popularity within the ultralight backpacking and long distance hiking community. Written 2018. See Also:
The post Ultralight Foam Sleeping Pads: Benefits and Advantages appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/ultralight-foam-sleeping-pads-benefits-advantages/ The CamelBak Fourteener 24L Hydration Pack is a day hiking and peakbagging hydration pack capable of carrying lots of food, water, and extra layers. CamelBak has introduced a version of the Fourteener 24L which is a substantial design departure from the previous model with a very different look, more cargo pockets, and a unique two-layer “dual-wing” hip belt system that greatly increases the pack’s reachable pocket storage. The new hip belt will be of particular interest to hikers that use their Smartphones as cameras or GPS navigation units and want them easily accessible for frequent use. Specs at a Glance
PocketsThe Fourteener 24L has two clam-shell pockets for storing a hydration reservoir, clothing, and gear. The pocket closest to your back is insulated and holds a 100 oz CamelBak Crux Reservoir, which comes with quick disconnect tubing and a bite valve lock to prevent accidental leaks. I’ve always preferred CamelBak’s bite valves and hose locks because they’re more secure and easier to use one-handed. The 100 oz reservoir is slightly larger than three liters, providing you with plenty of range for all-day hikes. There’s another clam-shell pocket behind the reservoir pocket to hold layers and gear. It has plenty of space to carry loose layers, in addition to two zippered pockets, one mesh and one solid. The clam-shell design makes it easy to access the contents without a lot of blind groping, unlike a top loader which far less convenient for frequent gear access. The front of the pack has an open shovel pocket, a zippered pocket on its exterior side, and fleece lined pocket above it that’s good for storing sunglasses. There’s a beefy haul loop at the top of the pack and one mesh side water bottle pocket on the right hand side. The new Fourteener does not have any side compression straps however, in a notable departure from the pervious model. These have been replaced by elastic trekking pole/ice axe shaft holders positioned where the top compression strap was previously. Hip BeltThe new Fourteener 24L has a two-tier hipbelt, unlike any hip belt I’ve ever seen on a backpack (and why I asked CamelBak to let me review it). There’s a thin, lightly padded inner belt that wraps around your hips for load transfer (see below) as well as an oversized “wing” tier that houses three large pockets, one zippered and two open on top. They’re both connected and tightened using the same push forward-style webbing strap and feel perfectly normal when worn, although they behave quite differently. The left hand zippered hip belt pocket is a giant 10″ long x 5″ high that’s large enough to stick “a pistol into,” according to the manufacturer. I use it for gloves, a camera, and a GPS or SmartPhone. The two pockets on the other side of the belt are open on top and split the same volume between them. The rearmost mesh pocket is large enough to hold a water bottle while the front one can hold a couple of snack bars. Both pockets are convenient for storing items you want handy, but it takes a while to appreciate them because they’re so much larger, functional, and different from the hip belts you find on other backpacks. VentilationCamelBak has added substantially thicker padding to the back of the Fourteener 24L including a large lumbar pad. This creates deep air channels between the padding to help ventilate your back and quickly dry perspiration. The air channels are mounted to a flexible panel which adjusts to the shape of your backs and hips. The thick padding extends into the shoulder harness which is substantially better padded than the hip belt. There are hose keeper loops on both shoulder pads as well an adjustable sternum strap and hose clip. RecommendationThe 2018 CamelBak Fourteener 24L is a high volume, insulated hydration pack good for long day hikes where you want to carry extra layers, food, and gear for an extended outing. A plethora of pockets provides lots of organizational options and flexibility for a wide variety of loads, while a 100 oz reservoir helps keep you hydrated. The Fourteener’s new dual-wing hip belt makes it easy to store and reach electronics including Smartphones, when used as a camera or GPS navigation device. The improved back ventilation and pocket architecture also make the new Fourteener 24L an excellent option for hard core day hikers and adventurers. Disclaimer: CamelBak provided the author with a sample hydration pack for this review. The post CamelBak Fourteener 24L Hydration Pack Review appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/camelbak-fourteener-24l-hydration-pack-review/ Mt Tremont (3371′) is a picturesque 3000 footer in Crawford Notch overlooking Sawyer Pond, Greens Cliff, and the Sandwich Range to the south. It’s a relatively short (2.8 mile) but steep hike (2550′ of ascent) up to the summit viewpoint. You can also approach the peak from the south on the Brunel Trail, climbing a NH200 peak called Owl’s Cliff, with a short detour. But that’s a hard trail to hike in winter because it has a major stream crossing at the very beginning. I’ve climbed Tremont many times before, but this time I was interested in checking out the stream which runs along the base of the trail and seeing if I could find an old logging road that intersects the trail part way up. There are all kinds of things marked on White Mountains maps which are out of date or plain wrong. I figured it would be fun to follow this logging road sometime in the future if I could figure out where it was. I’ve also teaching a few map and compass classes this spring and wanted to scout this area as a possible spot to run some class exercises. It’s not in a Wilderness Area, which means you can bring more than 10 people into it at a time. I’m a hopeless romantic, I guess, and still adhere to those rules. I quickly put on my microspikes at the bottom of the trail and hiked up to the intersection of the logging road. It was overgrown and obviously out of use, but you could still see where the track is despite the fact that the trees have grown in on top of it. I can understand why that road is still on this map: it’s an old USGS map published before 1990 back when all USGS maps were drawn by hand, making updates very difficult (so they didn’t). Who knows? Maybe that forest road was is service 30 years ago when this map was considered reasonably current. This is just another example of how you can’t trust all of the human structures you find on maps. Topographic contours are pretty reliable because the shape of landscape changes quite slowly. But backcountry bridges get swept away in spring floods, logging roads fall into disuse and return to the forest, trails are rerouted around avalanche zones or to control erosion, and so on. But I digress. Nearby hikes
After the logging road, the trail got wet and muddy before dropping down to a stream crossing across Stony Brook. I switched to snowshoes and started climbing the final mile to the summit. The snow was the consistency of mashed potatoes in the warm weather. The trail was also heavily postholed (sigh) by people who hadn’t been wearing snowshoes. I can never understand this. It’s dangerous to posthole in deep snow because you can easily break a leg. It ruins the trail for others and it takes infinitely more energy to climb a mountain while postholing. Cursing the postholers, I climbed up that last mile and approximately 1500′ of elevation gain at a slow but steady pace. I hoped my snowshoe tracks would pack out the trail for people following me. The top of the Mt Tremont Trail is so steep that it has switchbacks, which are quite rare in the White Mountains. I topped out finally and met to other hikers on the summit, who has also been wearing snowshoes. Good thing that, because I’m not sure I could have held my tongue if they’d been postholers. We chatted briefly, the way that people do at a viewpoint. I drank some hot tea and headed down again fairly quickly since there was a cool breeze above treeline. My snowshoes had in fact filled in most of the postholes on the narrow trail, which I found satisfying. The descent was much less arduous than the climb and I scouted Stony Brook a little bit more closely on the way out. There’s definitely excellent trout habitat there. Total distance: 5.6 miles with 2550′ of elevation gain. Recommended Guidebooks and Maps:
The post Climbing Mt Tremont in January appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/climbing-mt-tremont-in-january/ You’re on a backpacking trip and your sleeping bag gets wet. What should you do? Assess the SituationThe first thing I’d do is to assess how wet the bag is. If the foot end or cover are wet because they rubbed up against your tent at night and got damp from internal condensation, that’s a pretty low-risk (normal) situation. You can probably still use the bag as is, dry it out in the sun before breaking camp, or during the day during a rest stop. Drying gear is a normal “backpacking chore” and something that we all do when we have to, even if it means kicking back and waiting a few hours before setting out for the day. If the wetness is through and through a significant portion of your sleeping bag because you fell in a river or a mini flash flood blew through your tent, things are a little bit more serious. First off, squeeze (but don’t ring) as much moisture out as possible. Next hang up your bag and let it drip dry further while keeping the dry parts from becoming wet. Be very careful in handling the sleeping bag because it’s easy to tear a wet bag. It doesn’t matter if your sleeping bag is filled with down or synthetic insulation. I’d recommend the same technique. Bail OutIf you’re within a day’s hike of a town, your best bet would be to hike out and dry your bag in a drier at a laundromat, motel, or B&B. (How to Wash a Sleeping Bag) It’s going to take at least three hours to dry in a commercial drier, so you can imagine how long it would take to dry in the wilderness if you hang it from a tree. Of course, if you have cell phone or sat phone/text service, you can also just call a trail shuttle driver or Uber for a ride. I wouldn’t recommend drying your sleeping bag by a campfire. That’s a good way to melt or destroy the fabric that holds it together. If you’re not near civilization, keep reading. Leverage Your GroupIf getting to a drier is not feasible in one day, but you’re backpacking with other people, you’re going to have a lot more resources available to you than if you’re alone. Provided your sleeping pad is intact, you can share a sleeping bag with someone else by unzipping it all the way and using it like a quilt. Or you can put all of your clothes on and some of theirs, and roll yourself up in a tent body or tarp to stay warm. This might be a bit sweaty, but it’s a common wilderness medicine technique called a “human burrito” which is used to keep patients warm when they’re injured or hypothermic. You can even place hot water bottles inside the “wrap” as another heat source. You can use this technique night after night until you get back to civilization or your sleeping bag dries by itself. Solo Survival StrategiesIf you’re backpacking alone, I’d still recommend hiking out and drying your bag in town. You’ll stay warm as long as you’re hiking, so get moving. If you do need to stop to sleep, then the human burrito technique is still a good option. If you happen to have a saw or an axe, you can also build a fire and a heat reflector, but that’s going to take a lot of time away from hiking out, so it’s probably not be worth it. If you do backpack alone, it’s worth asking yourself whether you have enough gear, clothing, or skills to survive a catastrophic loss of sleeping insulation like a soaked sleeping bag or quilt. For instance, I normally use a plastic bag as a pack liner which I’ve used more than once as a bivy bag in cold weather. I always carry long underwear on trips to keep my sleep insulation free of dirt and body oils, but it’s also come in handy as a layer on cold nights. The same holds for carrying a stove, rain pants, a puffy insulated jacket, fleece cap, gloves, and a sleep shelter, even if it’s just a tarp. What would you do if your sleeping bag got wet? Comment below.Written 2018. See Also:
The post What to do if your sleeping bag gets wet on a backpacking trip appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/what-to-do-if-your-sleeping-bag-gets-wet-backpacking/ Backpackers and campers have a wide range of stoves available to them ranging from all-in-one stove systems to general purpose units that can be used across a wide range of temperatures and locales. Backpacking stoves fall into three categories: isobutane canister stoves which are best for solo cooking and short trips, alcohol stoves which are best for ultralight backpacking and thru-hiking, and liquid fuel stoves which are best for group cooking, cold weather use, and international travel. Below are our picks for the best backpacking stoves of 2018.
The post 10 Best Backpacking Stoves of 2018 appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/10-best-backpacking-stoves/ Pyramid tents and tarps are shaped backpacking shelters that can be sized for one, two, or multiple people. Often called “mids”, short for pyramids, there are many pyramid tent and pyramid tarps available today ranging from ultralight minimalist shelters to multi-person winter tipis, complete with stove jacks and wood stoves. Despite their cosmetic or functional differences, all pyramid shelters share a few common properties. They are exceptionally wind and weather resistant, they have a single peak, and solid walls. This makes them a good choice for camping in exposed terrain that doesn’t have a lot of natural windbreaks like trees or vegetation, and for winter camping, where the steep side walls of a pyramid can help shed snow. A Selection of Pyramid Manufacturers and Models
Pyramid Tents and TarpsWhat’s the difference between a pyramid tent and a pyramid tarp? Pyramid tents are usually just pyramid tarps with an optional add-on inner tent that has a floor and mesh netting to protect occupants from ground moisture, insects, and creepy-crawlies. If you use an inner tent with a pyramid tarp, you’ve effectively turned it into a double wall tent, with all of the advantages and disadvantages commonly associated with them. On the plus side, many pyramid inner tents can be set up after the outer tarp when it’s raining, so they stay dry. They’re also optional, so you can leave them at home when you want to save gear weight or bulk. If you opt not to use an inner tent in a pyramid tarp, you can use a lightweight footprint, like tyvek or window wrap, as a waterproof groundsheet, or an ultralight bivy sack with a mesh hood for added insect protection. Another common alternative is to purchase a half-sized inner tent that only fills part of the pyramid to save weight and so you can safely cook in the floorless half in bad weather. Hyperlite Mountain Gear, Bear Paw Wilderness Designs, and Ookworks all sell half mids that can be used for this purpose. When purchasing a pyramid, make sure to look for ones that have interior gear loops or attachment points so you can conveniently suspend accessories in the interior. Center PolePyramid tents and tarps are called monopole shelters because they only require one pole to set up. The pole is usually placed inside the peak in the center of the pyramid, although it can also be slanted with the base off-center to provide more interior room. The peak itself is usually reinforced so the center pole doesn’t puncture it. Most peaks also include an air vent to release the water vapor and warm air that can cause internal condensation. A pole is often included with the shelter or available as an option. Most smaller capacity pyramids (1-3 people) can be set up with a trekking pole instead of a separate tent pole, which is common with the ultralight pyramids made by cottage manufacturers. If your trekking pole is not long enough, you can lash it to a second trekking pole with a Voile ski strap to create a longer pole, or extend it with a pole jack, which is essentially a tent pole repair sleeve that fits over your trekking pole tip to make it longer. Front DoorMost pyramid tents and tarps have a single front door, which can be problematic depending on its position and the number of people sharing the shelter. While not an issue for solo use, you’re probably going to wake up a partner if you have to get out of a multi-person pyramid at night. When evaluating multi-person pyramids, try to find ones that lets you orient your head facing the front wall so you and your partner(s) have equal access to the door, rather than pyramids where you’re lying perpendicular to the door. Another option is to get a pyramid that is larger than necessary so you have more room inside to move around. For example, the GoLite Shangri-La 3 (now sold as the MTC Pyramid 3) is a spacious 2 person mid, but can be awkward for 3 adults to share given the center pole position and angled front door. Internal CondensationPyramid tents and tarps are prone to internal condensation just like any other single or double-walled tent and shelter. The best way to reduce or eliminate any internal condensation is to maintain as much airflow as possible. While many pyramid shelters have a vent in the peak, this isn’t usually sufficient by itself to vent moisture built-up. While sleeping with the front door rolled open in fair weather can be quite helpful, the best way to ensure good airflow is to maintain a wide air gap between the bottom edge of the tarp and the ground so breezes can pass through the tent. Lengthen the center pole a few inches to raise the peak, and stake out the base as normal. Interior VolumeWhile the head room at the center of a pyramid tent or tarp is usually quite good, letting you sit up with ease, the interior can be awkward to use depending on the slope angle of the walls and their distance from your face and the top of your feet. While elevating the center pole can help increase the distance between the tarp and your face, there’s always going to be less clearance at the edges of the tarp farthest away from the center pole. If this bothers you, look for pyramids with a higher peak height and steeper side walls. The shape of the footprint – circular versus square or rectangular – can also have an impact on in the amount of edge clearance you have. Edge clearance is usually less of an issue in winter because you can dig a pit into the snow under the pyramid to create more headroom. Campsite SelectionPyramid tarps and tents have a fairly large footprint, which can make it difficult to pitch in heavily forested terrain where you need to wedge them between trees. They also work best on flat and even ground, unlike a flat tarp, where you can pitch one side considerably higher than the other and still get a viable shelter. If the only ground you can set a pyramid up on is uneven, you’re probably going to get some “wall sag” instead of a drum-tight pitch on the high side. This can reduce the amount of useable space you have inside, but is unlikely to have a serious functional impact. When camping in exposed and windy terrain, it’s best to set up your pyramid with the door facing away from the wind or at an angle. You should also stake out the sidewall guy-out points for added security and to prevent wind pressure from bowing the walls into your living space. SummaryPyramid tarps and tents are a popular ultralight backpacking shelter option because they’re relatively lightweight and wind resistant. If sleeping on the ground doesn’t appeal to you or if you need insect protection, you can add an inner tent to a pyramid tarp to create a double-walled tent. Internal condensation is best addressed by encouraging plenty of airflow through a pyramid, by keeping the front door open or pitching them so plenty of air can blow through, low down near the ground. Most ultralight backpacking pyramids can be set up using a trekking pole(s), but you can usually obtain and carry a separate tent pole if you don’t use them. Pyramids work best on flat ground with fairly open campsites because they require a fair amount of space to set up and stake down. While headroom is quite good in the center of a pyramid, the ends can be quite low above your face or the tops of your feet. This can be addressed by getting a larger capacity pyramid that provides more living space, although it will be heavier to carry. Written 2018. Support SectionHiker.com, where we actually field test the products we review. If you make a purchase after clicking on the links above, a portion of the sale helps support this site at no additional cost to you.See Also:
The post Ultralight Backpacking Pyramid Tent and Tarp Primer appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/ultralight-backpacking-pyramid-tent-and-tarp-guide/ The North Face Mica FL 1 is a one person double-wall tent that weighs 32.5 ounces. The inner tent is freestanding, making it very easy to set up, and the rain fly only requires an additional 2 stakes to pitch. Steep side walls and the curved pole architecture provide plenty of head room, while an inner tent length of 85″ gives tall people plenty of room to stretch out. The tent also comes bundled with an optional footprint (not shown) which is unusual, since most tent manufacturers charge people extra for them. Specs at a Glance
The Mica 1 is pretty comfortable as one person tents go, although you can’t do much more than lie down inside and go to sleep. It is bright and airy though and easy to fit into small or unprepared tent sites, which can be quite convenient if you like to camp in wild country, outside of well-defined campsites. The inner tent is tapered: 30″ wide at the head end and 24″ wide at the foot end, and therefore best used with a 20″ or 25″ tapered mummy sleeping pad. A high bathtub floor keeps water from seeping into the tent and the front and rear mesh walls/ceiling provide plenty of cross ventilation to keep help reduce internal condensation. The inner tent has a height of 40″ so you can sit up inside easily. There’s a single front door that can be toggled open, one mesh pocket at the head end of the tent, and abundant internal gear loops to hang lights or electronics overhead. The Mica 1 has a front vestibule that provides valuable gear storage space and is really the only place you can store your backpack and wet shoes. The fly zipper is protected with a gutter to prevent rain from splashing down on you when you open the fly to get out at night, although the zipper has a tendency to get stuck unless you’re careful when you open it. There are also two large vents at the head and foot ends of the tent that you can stake out for additional ventilation. The rear window of the tent fly can also be staked out for added ventilation. While it covers a space that’s large enough to be a small vestibule, there isn’t a second door in the inner tent to access it except from the outside. The corners of the inner tent and rain fly have color-coded grommets that slip over the tent pole struts, making set up fast and easy. While this almost makes the tent freestanding, you will want to stake out the tent corners to fully stretch out the inner tent floor. All of the guy-lines are fixed cord loops and are not adjustable with tensioners however, something I would recommend modifying, especially on the front vestibule and the rear window. Otherwise, you might find you need to move the tent around to find good ground that will hold your tent stakes. The Mica FL 1 floor and fly is made with a 20D Ripstop Nylon with PU which is lightweight and reasonably durable with good campsite selection. Tent fabric notwithstanding, I think a bigger area of concern are the tent poles that the tent uses. The two-segment horizontal cross-pole used on the Mica 1 FL is very easy to break. When assembling the pole, make sure the two halves are well seated before attaching it to the tent hub and ball joints at the other ends. If they’re not securely connected, you can easily split the “male” pole end, which will necessitate a repair or replacement. RecommendationThe North Face Mica FL 1 is an easy tent to like. It’s fast to set up and it has a small footprint, so you can fit it in just about anywhere. The Mica 1 also has great ventilation, good stability, and a generously sized front vestibule to stash your gear. Really, the only awkward thing about the Mica FL 1 is the single, multi-segment tent pole which is bulky and somewhat ungainly to pack. While the lightweight design and materials used in the Mica 1 require some care to use and maintain, its ease of setup and spacious dimensions make it a good beginner tent or a nice upgrade from a more cramped camping shelter. Disclosure: The author purchased this tent with his own funds. See Also:The post The North Face Mica FL 1 Tent Review appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/the-north-face-mica-1-fl-tent-review/ The Western Mountaineering Ultralite is a 20 degree sleeping bag that weighs 29 ounces. It’s filled with 16 ounces of 850+ fill power goose down and loaded with features that make it comfortable to use, especially during early spring and late autumn when there’s a touch of winter chill in the air. I’ve owned one for going on 10 years and still consider it a first-rate component of an ultralight sleep system despite the increased popularity of lighter weight backpacking quilts. While the color on the outside fabric of my Ultralite has faded a bit with age, it’s still as warm as ever. Specs at a Glance:
When I purchased the WM Ultralite, it was an investment. I can’t remember exactly what I paid for it, but it was one of the most expensive 20 degree sleeping bags available at the time. That hasn’t changed and Western Mountaineering bags are still priced at a premium. In fact, Western Mountaineering refuses to let retailers discount their bags, which is why they’re never on sale at a discount. What has changed is the breadth of the Western Mountaineering product line and the new sleeping bags, quilts, and hammock under-quilts they’ve started to introduce in recent years. A few years ago, it seemed like the brand was languishing. But they’ve introduced a wave a new products in the past few years and are clearly innovating with the times. The Ultralite isn’t the only great sleeping bag that Western Mountaineering makes, but it has all of the standard features you find across the product line and that set Western Mountaineering bags apart from others:
Draft CollarA draft collar is a tube of goose down that drapes across your upper chest and back to seal in the warm air inside the sleeping bag. It prevents what’s called the “bellows effect”, which causes warm air to be being pushed out the top of a sleeping bag or quilt when you move around at night. Draft collars are more commonly found on sub-zero -20 and -40 degree sleeping bags, but are just as effective in warmer temperature sleeping bags like the Ultralite 20. Draft TubesThe Ultralite has two down-filled tubes that run the length of the side zipper. When you zip up the sleeping bag, they come together and block any cold drafts that might make their way past the zipper. Zipper GuardThere’s a wide piece of fabric tape that runs along one side of the zipper on the Ultralite which prevents the zipper from getting stuck in the shell fabric of the other side. I’ve ripped the shell fabric of many sleeping bags made by other manufacturers that don’t have this feature, which is a real life saver in preserving the exterior shell. Continuous BafflesThe 850+ fill power goose down in the Ultralite is distributed in continuous horizontal baffles from zipper to zipper, so you can shift the down insulation from one side of the bag to the other. For instance, during hot summer nights, you can shift the down from the top of the bag to the bottom so there is less insulation on top of you. When the weather is cold, you can move the down to the top of the bag. This is a desirable feature in a 3 season, 20 degree bag because it means you can use it across a wider range of temperatures and conveys quilt-like flexibility, in terms of temperature regulation, for a sleeping bag. It requires a bit more thought to use, but the extra flexibility is quite useful and can cut down on the number of sleeping bags you need to purchase if you backpack and camp year-round. PerformanceI’ve used the Ultralite 20 year-round from early spring to late autumn up and down the US East Coast and in Scotland in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees up to 80 fahrenheit. It’s fantastic for cool weather backpacking in early spring and late autumn when the days are short and nighttime temperature run between 20 and 50 degrees. I like to section hike the Appalachian Trail during “shoulder seasons” in those temperatures and the Ultralite is perfect for that time of year. I’ve also backpacked across Scotland twice in May with the Ultralite in similar conditions. But for temperatures over 60 degrees, the Ultralite is overkill and you have to unzip it or use it like a quilt when it gets hot out. When I first bought it, I was just getting back into backpacking and didn’t have much gear, so I used it year-round. These days I use a quilt or a hoodless sleeping bag when nighttime temps get above 50 degrees, depending on whether I’m sleeping in a hammock or on the ground. Fit-wise, the Ultralite is a bit narrow at the shoulders and over the chest. That’s by design, to save fabric weight and reduce the amount of air that your body needs to heat up at night. Western Mountaineering sells similar bags with a wider shoulder girth if you prefer more space. As a side sleeper, I’ve never found these dimensions to be terribly constricting. In addition, the hood on the Ultralite is fairly “flat” as opposed to fitted, which makes it easier for side sleepers to use. RecommendationThe Western Mountaineering Ultralite 20 Sleeping bag is a premium mummy sleeping bag best used for nighttime temperatures under 60 degrees. It’s loaded with high-end features that you won’t find on most three-season sleeping bags, like 850+ fill power goose down, a draft collar, down draft tubes, zipper tape guard, and continuous baffles. These features cost more because they have to be hand sewn and require more labor to make, but they really increase the performance characteristics of the bags that have them. While Western Mountaineering sleeping bags are expensive, they do retain their value over time. I’ve had my Ultralite 20 for 10 years now and it’s still as warm and functional as ever despite hard use. If the Ultralite feels like an attractive option, you need to ask yourself whether its temperature range matches your needs. Mummy sleeping bags aren’t for everyone and with the increased availability of quilts and hoodless sleeping bags, backpackers have a lot of options available when it comes to sleep insulation. While I do prefer a quilt and hammock in warmer weather and it’s must-have in a hammock, I still like to use a mummy bag when temperatures drop below 40-50 degrees at night for the extra head and shoulder insulation they provide. My advice is to figure out what temperature range you need to cover and what you’re willing to spend before you invest in a Western Mountaineering bag like the Ultralite 20. They’re fantastic ultralight sleeping bags, but it’s best to make an educated purchase rather than an impulse buy with such a premium product. See Also:
The post Western Mountaineering Ultralite Sleeping Bag Review appeared first on Section Hikers Backpacking Blog. from https://sectionhiker.com/western-mountaineering-ultralite-sleeping-bag-review/ |
ABOUT MEHello my pleaseure to introduce myself, I am Jose Johnson. I am 26 years old from Monroe, LA. I love to got for hikings with my friends on holidays. Archives
April 2019
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